On my way to Musée Cognac-Jay, I passed through part of Place de Vosges, with a rude reminder that not all is beautiful in Paris.
I find it upsetting the amount of homeless people who live in Paris. Maybe I don’t walk around my own city enough, to be confronted by it.
An Irish guy I met tonight in Au Petit Fer à Cheval said one of the best ways to practice my French is with ‘crazy’ people because they will listen to what you say to them, whether your French is good or not. There is a fair amount of truth in this.
My local homeless man – who I have had a number of ‘conversations’ with, told me that his family forgot about him in an airport.
Sad and probably true but he does have the patience to listen to me, even if it is to receive some small change at the end of the conversation. He is always upbeat and friendly, and I have to say, I look forward to him greeting me each day. If I walk by in a hurry, he calls out après après, in the hope I will give him some money later. After, after.
One of the museums I visited today, albeit free; was once part of a collection from the owners of the fabulous but now sadly defunct, La Samaritaine. They, were certainly not strapped for cash.
The landmark building, La Samaritaine and former department store on the banks of the Seine, will shortly become home to a high end shopping centre and hotel and was once a prime place to have a free, 360 degrees view of Paris.
Musée Cognac-Jay has a very impressive collection from the childless couple who bequeathed some of but not all that is on display today, in a building that was saved from disrepair. All in all this is a wonderful display of paintings, furniture, miniatures and gorgeous clocks, most of which are keeping good time and chime.
Unlike the hustle and bustle of the big galleries, I found myself alone in a number of the rooms. If not, I waited for the people to pass by, so I could quietly take it all in.
Some times I found it hard to believe that I was standing in a room, on my own, with not one but four Fragonard’s lining the wall.
Or a Boucher here and
a Rubens there.
There is a wonderfully peaceful ambience they have created in this grand old town house in the Marais.
The other quiet and free pleasure in the Marais, just a block, or so, away is Le Musée Carnavalet – the History of Paris. With its beautiful grounds, great models of the creation of Paris and more wonderful art, furniture and chandeliers, what more did I want!
The House of Victor Hugo was also on my free and rainy day list, but in the words of Scarlet O’Hara; after all, tomorrow is another day.
Instead, I finished the night off, in my favourite bar, Au Petit Fer à Cheval, often over run with people, but was quiet. I slipped in for a wine, which became two or more. The lovely Irish man I met, quietly and kindly paid for my glass of wine before he left and later, I met an equally lovely Australian girl.
Knowing it was going to be a rainy day today. I was comforted knowing an umbrella hung on the coat rack, only to discover it was an empty umbrella cover, I decided anywhere, indoors, was a good option for today.
It didn’t rain on my walk home – and as the Aussie girl said to me, I find if it rains, I just pop into a bar until it passes.
