Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève
I felt like an intruder as I slipped through the old creaky door.
A handful of librarians looked up from their book sorting and back to what they were doing.
Apart from my whispered bonjour to a man who sat behind a desk surrounded by an iron fence, you could have heard a pin drop.
Located opposite the Panthéon and a stones throw away from the church Saint-Étienne-du-Mont is the historic public library Sainte-Geneviève.
The steps you see here of Saint-Étienne-du-Mont have become somewhat famous after Woody Allen chose this location for his film Midnight in Paris.
However, perhaps lesser known, Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève also has its claim to fame in film, being one of the locations for Martin Scorsese’s Academy Award-winning film, Hugo.
The vast collection of the Abbey of Sainte-Geneviève was in need of a home and it took seven years of construction after the architect Henri Labrouste delivered his unique design in 1839.
The public, university library now holds around 2 million documents and the magnificent cast iron ceiling of the two storey reading room, is nothing short of breath-taking.
Although you may witness a long queue snaking down the side of the exterior, it isn’t as simple as lining up with the crowds of students to gain entry. For casual visitors, certain steps must be adhered to and take it from me, don’t be late, or you will be sorely disappointed.
Entry for casual visitors, being if you are a tourist and simply want to admire the reading room instead of wanting to gain entry to study, in the first instance, you are required to email the library and request an appointment (you will find the details below).
Although the library is public, it is also the main library for students and academics of the Sorbonne University and to avoid tourists wandering around distracting studies, casual visitors are only allowed to visit between 9am to 10am before the hundreds of students descend upon the building.
This is in fact a very favourable set up. A large majority of tourists are unaware of this glorious gem and if you are lucky, like I was, I had the entire reading room to myself, apart from the handful of librarians going about their daily duties, preparing the reading room for a new day.
Due to my own stupidity, it took me three attempts to gain entry. The first time I slept in, the second I decided to show up before my allotted appointment day and was refused entry.
Two days later I was back and told to wait in the foyer, this time I was 10 minutes early, I wasn’t taking any chances.
Wandering around the quiet and dimly lit foyer, I hoped that my group wasn’t going to be large.
The man on the desk approached me, ‘you can go up now’. I looked slightly startled, did I misunderstand the French. He repeats, slightly impatient, ‘go up to the next floor, take the stairs on the right or the left’.
And that is what I did. To my delight, on my own, no guide and no group.
It was everything I hoped it would be and more.
The fantastic ceiling, light flooding in from the banks of windows, books lining the vast long walls and hundreds of green reading lamps lined up with military like precision on the rows of desks.
After taking an embarrassing amount of photos, I decided that the best vantage point would be on the second level.
I walked the perimeter of the room to find every staircase with a chain across it.
Approaching the man behind the iron fence and in my quietest, politest best French I could manage I asked for access upstairs and what I got back was a monologue about safety and a blunt non.
It wasn’t long afterwards a female librarian approached me. I was disappointed that my one hour must have already come to an end but instead of being asked to leave, she offered to take me upstairs, informing that she must stay with me.
You couldn’t wipe the grin off my face!
It must be a health and safety issue but she very patiently played around with her mobile phone as I gave my camera a workout.
Despite a couple of false starts, it was a very enjoyable way to spend one hour in Paris.
There are many secret treasures to be discovered in Paris, you just need to know where to find them.
If you have found this information interesting or useful, please leave a comment or follow me on facebook for daily tips, photos and anecdotes, your feedback encourages me to keep this site up to date. Merci!
Paris Adèle’s Information Necessaire:
Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève – Official Website
10 Place du Panthéon
Paris 75005
Nearest Metro:
Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal Lemoine
Bus Lines:
84, 89, 82, 38, 27, 21, 85.
How to gain entry:
Email for an appointment:
BsgMail@univ-paris3.fr
Monday – Friday
9am – 10am
Bring a photo ID
Entrance: Free
Explore more Paris Adèle Secrets :
Belle Époque BrothelsLavish brothels dotted around Paris during the Belle Epoque were easily identifiable, some relics exist today, if you know what to look for.
Square de MontsourisA hidden jewel, begging to be discovered. Eclectic maisons wrapped in greenery, unseen by most tourists to Paris.
Secret Garden Hôpital Hôtel-DieuA secret garden in an unusual location, right in the centre of Paris that thousands of tourists pass by each day without knowing it exists.
La GalcanteVintage periodicals and books fill this small quirky, off the beaten path shop in a secluded courtyard where you may find the perfect Parisian souvenir.
Lavirotte Building and Square RappExquisite Art Nouveau building with one of the most beautiful doors in Paris & a tiny square that offers a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower.
Passage de l’AncreWho would know a delightful, tranquil little piece of paradise could be hidden away behind an unassuming crooked doorway in the heart of Paris.
Rue CrémieuxA tiny paved street, that oozes charm, lined with pretty colourful houses that will take your breath away, still one of Paris' best kept secrets.
Musée des Arts ForainsTransport yourself back in time. Ride spectacular antique carousels, play ancient fair-ground games and admire colourful memorabilia.
Villa Olivier-MétraPretty cottages with colourful shutters line this serene leafy path with quaint personal touches added by residents who have a playful sense of humour.
Bibliothèque Sainte-GenevièveA remarkable and historic reading room with its spectacular ceiling, books lining the vast long walls and rows of green reading lamps.
St. Sergius Orthodox Theological InstituteHidden away on a leafy hill is the oldest Russian Orthodox Theological Institute in Western Europe.
Restaurant Foyer de la MadeleineLurking deep in the cellars of L’église Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is one of Paris' best kept secrets, Restaurant Foyer de la Madeleine.
An Angel in ParisSoaring high above, with it's delicate wings nestled under a fourth floor balcony and yet remarkably this rare Paris secret often goes unnoticed.
Bibliothèque RichelieuMillions of books line the walls of this historic library under monumental ceilings and finally, it is open to the public.
The Secret PassageThis lush and adorably sweet top secret passageway is a pure delight. Let me show you where to find it and how to gain entry. But sssh ... it's our secret.
Passage BoudinCreeping vines, colourful flower boxes and an unusual semi-circular building that would be more at home in the Mediterranean is just some things you will find.
Cité FloraleA secret micro village hidden away, in a small pocket, off the beaten path in the 13th arrondissement of Paris. Discover why it is called the Floral City.
La Butte aux CaillesA secret hideway with cobbled streets, a sweet village square, interesting street art and friendly, affordable cafés, tucked away in the 13th arrondissement.
Rue de MouzaïaOff the beaten path, Rue de Mouzaia will make you feel blessed that you discovered this secret hideaway and it’s surrounds in the 19th arrondissement.
Rue des ThermopyleApart from locals taking a short-cut, or Parisians on a quiet stroll, what you will find here is a wisteria filled, rustic cobbled pathway.
Square Saint-Gilles Grand VeneurHidden away behind the Hôtel du Grand Veneur in the Marais is a little known secret square with a surprising artistic connection.
Salvador Dali SundialMany people pass this hidden gem by Salvador Dali tucked away on the Left Bank of Paris unaware that they only need to look up.
6 Responses to Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève